Frequently Asked Questions Last Update: May 4, 2009 11:01 PM

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1. I bet that big heavy v8 really messes up the car's handling right?

2. Do you get any traction?

3. Ok, seriously how hard is the swap. How long did it take you?

4. How much do you have to cut up the car, do I have to weld anything?

5. Your cooling fan looks really close to the water pump and crank pulley, is there a better solution?

6. How does the car drive, is it streetable?

7. Are you afraid someone is going to hotwire you car?

 

1. I bet that big heavy v8 really messes up the car's handling right? WRONG! The all aluminum ls1 weighs around 40lbs more than the iron block 1.8 liter that comes out. Most of the weight gain (about 70lbs of it) comes from the transmission. In total the swap adds about 180lbs to the car. WITH me in the car, it has 52.3% of the weight on the front and 51% wieght on the left. Cross weight is 50.2%

2. Do you get any traction? Yes. I was actually quite surprised how good traction is in the dry. I am on Toyo 215/40/16's at the moment and I can go WOT in 2nd gear with little wheelspin. Of course you have to feather in 1st gear but what car with a ls1 do you not have to do that? I think going with some wider stickier tires will further help the issue. UPDATE: I now have 225/50/15 Hankook RS2's on the rear and am happy with the traction. In warm dry weather, traction is not that big of a concern in anything above 2nd gear.

3. Ok, seriously how hard is the swap. How long did it take you? It really isn't that bad. I have a limited set of tools and did all the work on jack stands mostly by myself. I took the old drivetrain out in one weekend, waited 3 months for my car to get painted and then spent nearly every weekend in Jan-Mar to install the kit and have to car fully running. It took somewhere around 200 hours of actually working on the car (thats sorta a guess). That does not include the time to go on the many autoparts store run for a wiring connector or fuel line disconnect tool or coolant hose, etc. Racing Concepts suggest shops charge 40 hours of labor to get it done. I feel that I could do the swap in 40 hours if I had all the parts, tools and had a lift.

4. How much do you have to cut up the car, do I have to weld anything? The two corners in the engine bay have to be cut (see the Teardown page). Besides that nothing has to be cut but holes to have to be drilled for the frame rail braces and for the diff mounting.

5. Your cooling fan looks really close to the water pump and crank pulley, is there a better solution? It is close but does not contact so I am not concerned. However, the ls2 water pump and crank pully are about 1.5 inches lower profile and would thus provide some more room if needed.

6. How does the car drive, is it streetable? The car drives very well. The first version of the kit had noticeable bumpsteer but the new one rids of that. The car is very smooth while cruising but some engine vibrations can be felt at idle since the engine has solid mounts. The exhaust can be tucked up above the stock scrub line. The only thing that is really below the stock scrub line is the diff which hangs down about 1.5 inches below the stock scrub line. Since it is in line with the rear tires, it is very hard to bottom out the diff (speed bumps don't pose a problem).

7. Are you afraid someone is going to hotwire you car? Yes I was but then I installed a DIY Immobiliser that prevents someone from driving my car away. I used AutoSpeed's Article as guide. I tied mine into the fuel pump power supply and it works great.